Engine

• Change the engine oil and filter. 15W-40, API CF-4+. Sump 2.4–3.0 L; fill slowly.
• Change the fuel filters, Racor and engine. Bleed and re-prime the lines.
• Change the gearbox oil — Dexron III ATF, 0.30 L.
• Raw-water impeller — replace it, do not inspect it.
• Check the alternator belt for wear, the idle speed, the electrical systems and all nuts and bolts.
• Coolant: drain, flush and renew. Check the heat exchanger and cap.
• Every second year: renew the alternator belt, reset the valve clearances, torque the cylinder head, check the injectors, clean the air inlet gauze.
• Run her up and hold full throttle briefly. Record the rpm reached.
• Check spares aboard; reorder oil filter, fuel filters, impeller.

• Walk the deck: stanchions, pulpit, jackstays, lifelines.
• Standing rigging: terminals, clevis and split pins, turnbuckles, chainplates.
• Running rigging: chafe at the clutches, sheaves and the boom end.
• Dock lines: check condition and replace as necessary.
• Look for water staining below every deck fitting. New stains mean a new leak.
• Service the winches. Grease the wheel steering.

• Fire extinguisher: in date, gauge in the green, mounted where you can reach it.
• Flares in date. Horn works. Smoke and CO alarms tested.
• Four serviceable lifejackets: buckles, straps, no perishing.
• VHF transmits and receives; the antenna and coax are sound.
• Check every date in the renewals table overleaf.
• All operations cards still match how the boat actually works.

In Texas this is what "laying her up" means. It arrives with about three days' warning.

• Drain the water heater.
• Drain or blow out the fresh-water system. Run the pump dry, then switch it off.
• Empty and flush the holding tank. Drain the shower sump.
• Pump the bilge and the engine pan dry. Water that freezes has to go somewhere.
• Leave her connected to shore power. The lithium house battery heats itself, and it needs power to do it.
• Check the dock lines will still hold with a north wind behind the front.

• Look before you turn anything on: split hoses, weeping fittings, water in the bilge.
• Refill and bleed the fresh-water system. Check every joint you disturbed.
• Check the raw-water side of the engine and the A/C for cracked strainers.
• After close lightning: test the galvanic isolator. A surge reaches shore through it, and it fails by quietly losing galvanic isolation while the safety ground survives. Two anti-parallel diodes — a meter in diode mode settles it.

• Keep the tank full over any long lay-up. Less air means less condensation and less water.
• Dose biocide while fuelling, not into a static tank — it needs the turbulence to mix.
• Filters are changed annually at commissioning. Carry a spare set aboard.

• Bilge dry. Pump cycles when you lift the float.
• Engine pan dry. Any water at all is worth chasing.
• Dock lines and fenders: chafe, position, still doing their job.
• Shore cord, inlet and dock connector cool to the touch after a load has run.
• Nothing new on deck: no stains, no rust weeping, no loose fastenings.

• Press the TEST button on the ELCI main. It may trip the dock socket too; that is harmless.
• Press the TEST button on the dock GFCI. It is more sensitive than the ELCI, so at this berth it is still the first line — and it is a consumable in a wet box that fails by not tripping.
• Run the engine to temperature if she has not been used.
• Raw-water strainer clear. Check the gearbox oil level.
• Draw a sample from the Racor bowl: bright fuel, no water, no sediment.
• Check the battery state in the Victron app; confirm the boat is still reporting in.
• Look at the bottom from the dock: growth, waterline, anything hanging off her.

• Bottom paint — this is what sets the two-year cycle. Check blisters and the keel joint.
• Anode: replace. Magnesium in fresh water, never zinc. A diver can swap it between lifts if it will not last.
• Cutlass bearing: check for play at the shaft.
• Shaft: scoring at the bearing journal and the packing land; run-out on the strut.
• Stuffing box: the hose and its four clamps, and the shaft where the packing rides. Repack if it will not adjust.
• Through-hulls and seacocks: exercise every one. Look for dezincification.
• Propeller: damage, fouling, pitch. Rudder and skeg for play.

• Check every seacock and hose for weeping before the crane lets go.
• Check the stuffing box for weeping before the crane lets go. A slow drip under way is right; a drip at rest is not.
• Run the engine and confirm cooling water and no leaks before leaving the lift.
• Check the bilge again after an hour afloat.

• How to do each job: the systems pages at swallow.mgilbert.ai.
• What was actually done: the maintenance log on the same site — date, hours, who, what, how much.
• This card: only what is due, and roughly when. If it starts explaining, it has grown wrong.