Swallow · Electrical System (AC + DC)

1993 Catalina 270 — dual-bank DC (LiFePO₄ house + AGM start) + 120 V AC shore system, Victron Cerbo GX monitoring
SCHEMATIC & BUILD SPEC · v5.0 · rev 2026-09-10 · by-location diagrams (DC + AC) · colour standard: red +DC / yellow −DC / black AC-live / grey neutral / green ground · Both sheets rebuilt for the two-panel architecture: Blue Sea 6011 + 8377 on the DC side, 8100 + 8097 on the AC side. Two Class-T 200 A fuses and one thermal breaker per battery. The bulkhead studs are distribution nodes. Cranking draw revised to ~100 A.

DC power schematic (12 V)

PORT LAZARETTE ENGINE BAY PANEL BATTERY BAY START SIDE UNDER REAR BERTH HOUSE SIDE BILGE ▲ AC panel backlighting 2203 · system neg 2204 · start pos ◀ fridge · + and – · switch at the icebox B+ lug plate — as built – common + start + house 30A 40A Start Charger Victron IP67 12/17 AGM · HIGH 14.7V Bluetooth only — no VE.Direct House Charger Victron IP43 12/30 LiFePO₄ profile 2nd (4A) output UNLANDED Starter / Engine Perkins Perama M20 crank load + – Alternator Lucas A127 · 55A charges START only · unfused + – GX Touch 50 Cerbo GX – + GX LTE 4G-A 1A 5A 10A 15A negative bus +ve bus · unswitched Blue Sea 5026 12 circuits · 4 used Blue Sea 8377 16-position DC panel +ve –ve gnd 16 load circuits come off the +ve and –ve buses. Ground bus links to the AC panel's grounding bus. ⚠ The bond to DC negative is NOT made here — it is the AC panel's. Exactly one aboard. always-on: off the +ve bus BILGE SWITCH MAN · OFF · AUTO (3-way) MANAUTO MASTER DC SWITCH Blue Sea 6011 m-Series Mini · Dual Circuit Plus OFF·ON·COMBINE combine = emergency cross-start, engine OFF LOAD-2 LOAD-1 BAT-2 · from the 150 A breaker BAT-1 · from the 100 A breaker Bilge Pump Jabsco 37202-2012 under the berth · 10 A – + Class-T 200 A 100 A breaker SmartShunt 500A SYS– BATT– house – aux Start Battery Odyssey AGM24M cranking · AGM – + Class-T 200 A 150 A breaker House Battery Epoch 105Ah LiFePO₄ · BMS – + Float Switch auto level sensor out→pump in←AUTO
Positive
DC negative (yellow)
sense lead (shunt B+ / aux)
data (VE.Direct / display)
FUSE / AWG protection on each run — full schedule below
shaded box = where it lives aboard · crossings hop, not joined

AC power schematic (120 V)

PORT STERN LOCKER PORT LAZARETTE NAV STATION · Blue Sea 8100 ELCI + Blue Sea 8097 AC panel GALLEY CABIN BOW · UNDER V-BERTH Dock pedestal 20 A · 125 V (5-20R receptacles) Shore inlet SmartPlug 30 A · 125 V Galvanic isolator VDI-32 · in GREEN earth conductor ONLY 2-gang outlet · switched IP66 weatherproof, on the lazarette board each charger independently switchable House charger Victron Smart IP43 12/30 LiFePO₄ profile ~4 A AC Start charger Victron Blue Smart IP67 12/17 AGM High, 14.7 V ~2 A AC VM-3P75CT AC energy meter, behind the panel L·N·G feed (ahead of the main) CT clamp on the line (after it) L N G ▶ VE.Bus → Cerbo GX (see DC sheet) ELCI MAIN · Blue Sea 8100 3106100 · 30 A double-pole 30 mA leakage · 120 V · UL reverse-polarity + ON LEDs the ONLY main · TEST monthly the shore-power disconnect L·N·G in L·N·G out ▶ engine block — the ONE AC↔DC bond ▶ bonding system (shaft, strut, seacocks) Blue Sea 8097 · 6-position AC panel no main of its own — the 8100 upstream is the only main HOT BUS · line / live NEUTRAL BUS GROUNDING BUS CHGR20 A W.HTR20 A OUTLET15 A A/C20 A spare spare the fridge takes one of these Water heater Seaward S600 · ~12.5 A element engine-coolant heated as well deferred — kept switched OFF 120 V outlets cabin receptacles 15 A branch Raw-water circ pump SFCPA1-G500-01 · 1.9 A existing — the Mabru ships without one L+N+G via the A/C unit Air conditioner → Mabru SC09VI · 9,000 BTU inverter 1.3–5.2 A · modulates, no start inrush replacing King D16000 — compressor dead self-contained · raw-water cooled CT

Negative (ground) tree

One rule throughout: a tree, not a loop — exactly one path from any node back to the common negative.

HOUSE batt (−) --[2 AWG]--> SmartShunt "BATT−"     <- the ONLY thing on the shunt's battery side

START batt (−) -+-[2 AWG]--> SmartShunt "SYS−" --> 5026 NEGATIVE BUS -+-> bilge pump (−)
                |                                                     +-> Cerbo GX + GX LTE (−)
                |                                                     +-> fridge (−)
                |                                                     +-[2 AWG]-> 8377 NEG BUS --> panel loads
                |                                                          (the one link across the hinge)
                +-[2 AWG]--> 2203 BULKHEAD STUD  <-[jumper]- ENGINE BLOCK <-+- Starter (−)
                             (system negative)                               +- Alternator (−)
                                              <-[2 AWG]-- Lazarette COMMON − lug (both chargers)

SmartShunt aux ....> START batt (+)              voltage only - sense, no current
SmartShunt  B+ ....> 100 A breaker, BATTERY side  short run; keeps counting through a trip

Why it measures right

  • The shunt counts only what crosses into/out of the house battery — so the house battery is the only thing on its battery side.
  • The start battery sits on the load side; its cranking, alternator charging and trickle all close locally and never cross the shunt → house SoC stays honest.

Wire gauges

  • 2 AWG for every heavy run — both mains, the crank feed, the alternator, and every main negative.
  • The joints matter more than the copper. 16 ft of 2 AWG is 2.5 mΩ; one corroded ring terminal is 5–50 mΩ. Spend on lugs, crimps and bright terminations, not on heavier cable.
  • 🔴 Do not bundle the heavy runs. ABYC rates 2 AWG at 210 A, but bundled DC conductors derate to ~0.7, which is 147 A — below the 200 A Class-T. Run them separately or the fuse no longer protects the wire.
  • 8 AWG = charger pigtails · 16 AWG = everything on the 5026, so any fuse denomination protects the wire.

Data network — Victron Cerbo GX

Cerbo GX MK2 3× VE.Direct · WiFi · VRM SmartShunt 500Ahouse SoC Smart IP43 12/30house charger · VE.Direct Blue Smart IP67 12/17 start charger · Bluetooth only no VE.Direct — not on the Cerbo GX LTE 4G-A VRM over cellular GX Touch 50nav-station screen Solar MPPTfuture · spare port Phone (Bluetooth) USB BT VE.Direct HDMI + USB BT VM-3P75CTAC energy meter (shore V/A/kWh) VE.Bus
VE.Direct (wired → shows on Cerbo & VRM)
GX Touch cable (HDMI + USB; not VE.Direct)
Bluetooth (local app only)
VE.Bus (VM-3P75CT → Cerbo, AC metering)
Bluetooth only, no VE.Direct port: IP67 start charger + Epoch BMS — neither reaches the Cerbo or VRM
GX LTE takes the Cerbo's 2nd USB port — both are then full; a powered hub is the expansion route
SmartShunt aux input → Start batt (+) = start-battery voltage on the Cerbo/VRM (sense only, fused 1A — no current through it)

Wire & fuse schedule

#From → ToCableProtectionNotes
P1House batt (+) → house Class-T2 AWGClass-T 200Aon the shelf beside the battery, inside ABYC’s 7 in. 2 AWG is rated 210 A, so 200 A protects the feeder with no overload window
P2House Class-T (load) → 100 A breaker → 6011 BAT-12 AWG100 A breaker🔑 100 A because it protects the 8377’s buses, which are rated 100 A — a 200 A Class-T cannot. Do not tidy this up to match the start side. Resettable, so an accidental panel overload never costs a Class-T fuse
P3Start batt (+) → start Class-T2 AWGClass-T 200Asame arrangement. 200 A on both sides so the boat carries one spare denomination
P4Start Class-T (load) → 150 A breaker → 6011 BAT-22 AWG150 A breakerthe only breaker in the crank path. Cranking at ~100 A is 67 % of rating, and the breakaway peak lasts tens of milliseconds — far too fast for a bimetal
P56011 LOAD-2 → starter solenoid2 AWGcranking conductor🔴 straight to the solenoid through a grommet — it does NOT use a bulkhead stud. Carrying the switched crank feed is this cable’s whole job. 16 ft loop = 0.25 V, 2 %
—6011 LOAD-1 → 8377 positive bus2 AWG—unbroken — the panel feed has no device between the switch and the bus
P6House charger lug → house Class-T (battery side)8 AWG pigtail → 2 AWG feeder40Afuse sits at the charger end, on the pigtail — the smallest conductor, and shorter than ABYC’s 7 in allowance. ⚠ The only cable still running the full ~6 ft to the lazarette, the studs being single-circuit
P7Start Class-T (load) → 2204 bulkhead stud2 AWG—the unswitched start-positive node — 250 A, tin-plated brass, sealed and isolated from the bulkhead
P82204 → alternator B+2 AWGnone — deliberately unfuseda fuse in an alternator output is a load-dump mechanism, and landing unswitched means turning the battery switch off while the engine runs cannot damage it — which is why that rule is not on the operations cards. Protection is mechanical: abrasion sleeve, secured every 18 in, chafe guard at every bulkhead pass
P92204 → start charger (+) lug2 AWG → captive lead30A⚠ confirm the IP67’s captive-cable gauge before finalising the fuse
P10100 A breaker (load) → +ve bus (Blue Sea 5026) → 6011 BAT-12 AWGthe 100 A breaker🔑 The block is a TAP, not a link in the chain. Feed in and feed out are two rings stacked on the same #10-32 stud, so house current crosses ring-to-ring and never enters the block’s bus — which is why 12 positions on a 100 A block is not a pass-through problem. No intermediate fuse: 2 AWG is protected by the 200 A Class-T, the block sits behind the 100 A breaker, and its bus carries only what its own fuses distribute. The 40 A MAXI and the 5006100 holder are deleted. ⚠️ The rule that replaces them: unswitched positions are for small always-on loads, so the branch total stays well under 100 A. ⚠️ Two 2 AWG lugs on one #10-32 stud — check stud length, torque to 24 in-lb and re-check it, because with ring-to-ring conduction the joint IS the clamping force
F15026 → AC panel backlighting16 AWG1A🔑 Run 16 AWG to everything on this block, and note the fridge is unswitched with its own switch at the icebox — fuse at the source, switch at the load. ⚠️ That takes the unswitched draw from ~10 Ah/day to 30–50, so a lost shore connection flattens the bank in two to three days rather than ten: a VRM shore-power-loss alarm is a commissioning requirement. Then any fuse denomination protects the wire, and you never size a fuse down to a thin factory pigtail. Fuses become pull-out-and-replace instead of cut-and-recrimp
F25026 → Cerbo GX + GX LTE16 AWG5A
F35026 → bilge pump16 AWG10A
F45026 → fridge (Isotherm GE80)16 AWG15A
N1House batt (–) → SmartShunt “BATT–”2 AWG—🔴 the ONLY thing on the shunt’s battery side. Bond the house post to anything else and house current finds a path around the shunt — every state-of-charge figure becomes wrong but plausible
N2Start batt (–) → SmartShunt “SYS–”2 AWG—the start battery sits on the system side, so cranking current never passes through the shunt
N3SmartShunt “SYS–” → 5026 negative bus2 AWG—the bay busbar is gone; the bay holds batteries only
N3b5026 negative bus → 8377 negative bus2 AWG—🔑 the one negative link that crosses the hinge. Every unswitched load — bilge, Cerbo, GX LTE, fridge — returns to the 5026’s bus instead, so both legs terminate on the fixed back wall and nothing flexes when the panel opens. Confirmed: the negative bus has a single heavy stud, so both 2 AWG lugs stack on it and house return crosses ring-to-ring — the bus carries branch returns only, exactly as on the positive side.
N4Engine block → 2203 bulkhead stud2 AWG—the system-negative node. Starter and alternator negatives land on the block, which lands here on a short jumper
N52203 → start batt (–) post2 AWG—the one long run forward. 🔑 Each stud replaces two long cables with one long run and two short jumpers, so every long cable terminates where it can be seen and re-torqued
N6Lazarette COMMON – lug → 22032 AWG—both chargers share the one negative lug; it reaches the shunt’s system side through the stud and the start battery post
S1SmartShunt aux → start batt (+)sense wirefused at the start Class-T load sidestart-battery voltage only. The aux does voltage or temperature, not both. 🔑 A low-voltage alarm here catches a wrong charger profile, a dead charger, a tripped breaker and a failing battery, all at once — which is why the controls-free IP67 was the right choice
S2SmartShunt B+ → 100 A breaker, BATTERY sidesupplied, own inline fuseinlinea short run on the shelf rather than the length of the boat — and 🔑 it keeps the shunt powered through a breaker trip. The shunt counts amp-hours rather than measuring state of charge and only re-synchronises on a full charge, so an unpowered shunt comes back not knowing what happened in between. Still downstream of the Class-T, so the two-number rule holds
C1SmartShunt → Cerbo VE.Direct 1VE.Direct—bay → panel; VE.Direct comes in lengths to 10 m for pennies, which is why the Cerbo sits with the screen
C2House charger IP43 → Cerbo VE.Direct 2VE.Direct—lazarette → bay → panel
C3Cerbo → GX Touch 50HDMI + USB—short — the Cerbo sits directly behind the GX Touch on the DC panel. This pair is the length-constrained one and neither extends gracefully
C4Cerbo VE.Direct 3 → future solar MPPTspare—solar-ready, no rework. Leave a pull-string lazarette → coachroof while cables are being routed anyway
C5VM-3P75CT → CerboVE.Bus—shore V / A / kWh on the Cerbo and VRM — live total draw for AC load management
C6Cerbo → GX LTE 4G-A → VRMUSB—⚠ data only — the LTE takes its DC supply from the 5026, sharing a branch with the Cerbo so their grounds match as the manual requires. Fixed 1.0 m USB-A lead, so it must sit within a metre of the Cerbo. 4G-A is the correct band variant for North America. Needs a Mini-SIM and ~$10–20/month. Keep the antenna clear of metal; fibreglass is RF-transparent
—Start charger IP67——Bluetooth only — it cannot connect to the Cerbo. Its battery is watched by the shunt’s aux input instead (S1)

Gauges are sound minimums for these currents and the cranking path; on long runs, step up one size for voltage drop. Every battery (+) branch is fused within ~7″ of the post (ABYC).

Cable summary — three gauges (tinned marine; red for +, yellow for –): 2 AWG = every heavy run — both mains, the crank feed, the alternator, and every main negative · 8 AWG = the charger pigtails · 16 AWG = everything on the 5026. No 1/0 — at 16 ft and ~100 A the cable is not the problem, the joints are. 🔴 Do not bundle the heavy runs: 2 AWG is 210 A open, but bundled DC derates to ~147 A, which is under the 200 A Class-T. Run them separately or the fuse stops protecting the wire.

AC wire & fuse schedule (120 V)

#From → ToCableProtectionNotes
A1Dock pedestal → shore inlet (SmartPlug)50 ft 10/3 cordsetdock 20 Athe dock is a 20 A service (5-20R receptacles; there are no 30 A slips at DCYC) ⇒ 16 A continuous is a permanent design constraint. The pedestal carries receptacles only — no breaker, no disconnect — so switch the boat’s AC main off before unplugging. Inlet is a SmartPlug: large flat contacts and a positive latch, which removes the twist-lock’s char-and-fail mode
A2ELCI MAIN — the shore disconnectBlue Sea 8100 (breaker 3106100)30 mA · 30 A 2-poleA-Series ELCI main, 30 A double-pole, 30 mA leakage, 120 V AC, own enclosure (5.25 × 3.75 × 3.50 in deep), red reverse-polarity LED, green ON LED. UL-based and ABYC E-11 compliant by design. 🔑 It is now the ONLY main — the 8097 downstream is a branch panel with no main of its own, so the earlier two-mains-in-series arrangement is gone. Position: at the panel, a deliberate departure. E-11.11.1 would place it at the additional overcurrent protection within 10 ft of the inlet (E-11.10.2.8.3), but nothing in that run is accessible or testable, and protection nobody tests is not protection. ⚠ Accepted residual: a ground fault inside the ~20 ft inlet→panel feed returns via the green conductor and never passes through the toroid. The dock GFCI covers that at DCYC; nothing does elsewhere. The feed itself is 8 AWG behind a 20 A dock breaker. TEST monthly — no bench test needed
A2bInlet L + N + G → 8100 → 8097 buses8 AWG 3-core—all three conductors pass through the 8100. Its outputs land on the 8097’s hot, neutral and grounding buses, which are part of that panel
A2cSurge protection——Deliberately not fitted. Nothing aboard now diverts line or neutral energy into the earth path by design, so the isolator is not asked to carry surge current. If ever added: Type 2, MCOV ~150 V not 275 V (a European-rated arrester will not clamp low enough for 120 V equipment), status window, on the line side of the ELCI (downstream of an RCD it looks exactly like a residual current and trips it every storm), on the shortest practical lead — what limits an arrester is the inductance of its own connections
A3Inlet G → galvanic isolator → 81008 AWG greenVDI-32 ≥30 Athe isolator sits in the green earth only; L and N bypass it. Blocks sub-1.4 V galvanic DC, passes AC fault current. ⚠ ABYC A-28.9.2.1 requires fail-safe isolators to be labelled for a lightning strike — it fails in the harmless direction (safety ground survives, galvanic isolation may not), and does so silently, showing up as a disappearing anode months later. ⇒ test it after any close strike (two anti-parallel diodes; multimeter in diode mode). On the maintenance card
A4Permanent earth connections → 8100 grounding busgreen—🔴 The engine-block bond and the bonding-system tie land on the 8100, not the 8097 — the 8100 is a fixed device that survives a panel change, and a branch panel is the thing most likely to be swapped again. The ground-to-DC-negative bond is made at the engine block and there is exactly one aboard. Two create a loop, and normal load current then divides between the negative conductor and the grounding conductor permanently — a stray-current corrosion path. Neutral is never bonded to ground aboard. ⚠ OPEN: the old panel’s ground bus carries seven conductors against the neutral bus’s five. Five neutrals is one in plus four branches exactly, which rules out a neutral-to-ground link; of the seven grounds, one is shore and four are branches, so two are unaccounted for — most likely the engine bond and a bonding tie already in place. Confirm before creating another: unplug from shore and ohm the ground bus to bare engine block, then ring each conductor out as the panel comes apart
A5CHGR branch → switched 2-gang outlet → both chargers10 AWG 3-core15 A🔑 The chargers plug in, they are not hard-wired. An IP66 weatherproof two-gang outlet on the lazarette board, each charger independently switchable at arm’s length — that outlet is the chargers’ isolator, which is why the DC side needs none. ~6 A AC for the pair. ⚠ Independent devices on independent gangs, but one shared 15 A breaker
A6W.HTR branch → water heater10 AWG 3-core15 ASeaward S600, galley under-sink, ~12.5 A element — and Seaward specify a 15 A breaker. Engine-coolant heated as well, so the element is an occasional top-up rather than a routine load. Currently deferred and kept switched OFF
A7OUTLET branch → cabin receptacles10 AWG 3-core15 A—
A8A/C branch → air conditioner10 AWG 3-core15 AMabru SC09VI, 9,000 BTU variable-speed inverter, 1.3–5.2 A, replacing the King D16000 whose compressor is mechanically dead. 🔑 An inverter compressor ramps from zero, so there is no start inrush at all — which is what makes 15 A comfortable where the old unit drew 18.4 A sustained. The existing raw-water circ pump (1.9 A) is retained and fed through the A/C unit, the SC09VI shipping without one. ⚠ The return-air rebuild is not optional: 9k sits at the bottom of the computed range, so ≥80 in² free return area is load-bearing for the sizing
—Two spare positions——the fridge takes one, leaving one

AC load management — 20 A dock, 16 A continuous. Mabru at full plus both chargers is ~11 A; throttle the A/C and cap the chargers and even the water-heater element fits. 🔑 The SC09VI’s 1.3–5.2 A turndown is what makes that possible — a fixed-speed unit would not co-exist with the element at all. The VM-3P75CT shows live draw. Boat-side hardware is all 30 A fed from a 20 A source, so the dock breaker is the only real protection for the shore cord — and it lives in a distribution panel elsewhere on the dock, not on the pedestal. Full AC detail: knowledge/electrical-system.md · by-location AC sheet: swallow-ac-schematic-zoned.html.

Build & operating notes

Switch operation (Blue Sea 6011)

  • ON for all normal use — house and start stay isolated.
  • COMBINE = emergency start only. Combine with the engine off, wait several minutes to let the house charge the start battery, back to ON, then crank from the start battery alone — so the Epoch’s BMS never sees cranking inrush.
  • 🔑 There is no “never switch off while the engine runs” rule on this boat. The alternator lands on the 2204 stud, unswitched and upstream of both the breaker and the switch, so the switch cannot load-dump it. That is deliberate: it makes the boat safe for crew who have never been aboard.
  • Each bank also has its own breaker, upstream of the switch. Trip the start breaker and COMBINE, and you crank from the lithium without dumping into a flat AGM; trip the house breaker and the start side is untouched.
  • ⚠ COMBINE is for cross-STARTING, not cross-charging. Never reach for it as a charger-failure workaround — that puts an AGM-profile charger onto the lithium. The charger-failure procedure is a lug move at the plate, mode set before the cable moves.

Fusing

  • Class-T 200 A on both mains. The lithium needs Class-T’s 20 kA interrupt rating; the start side takes the same part so the boat carries one spare denomination. 2 AWG is rated 210 A, so 200 A protects the feeder with no overload window.
  • 🔑 A case for 200 A on the house side that is easy to miss: COMBINE cross-starting sends cranking current through the house main. That is the one legitimate scenario above 150 A.
  • Two-number rule. Every fuse must satisfy both its trip rating (≤ the wire’s ampacity) and its interrupt rating (≥ the fault current it could see). Low-amperage high-AIC fuses do not exist, so anything on a thin wire sits downstream of a Class-T, which backstops its little fuse. AIC: Class-T ≈ 20 kA · MRBF ≈ 10 kA · blade ≈ 1 kA.
  • No alternator→lithium path. If one is ever added it must go through a DC-DC.
  • Do not run the engine in COMBINE — that connects the alternator to the lithium, and a BMS disconnect mid-charge is an alternator load-dump.

Charging

  • Two chargers, one per battery, one profile each. House = Smart IP43 12/30 on LiFePO₄; start = Blue Smart IP67 12/17 on AGM High, 14.7 V.
  • 🔑 The IP43’s second (4 A) output is deliberately unlanded. The (1+1) charger runs one algorithm across both outputs, so a lithium profile would leave the Odyssey chronically undercharged — which is the condition that probably killed the original batteries.
  • ⚠ The IP67 has no controls — its mode is settable only over Bluetooth and invisible otherwise. Label it, save the profile in VictronConnect, and rely on a VRM low-voltage alarm on the shunt’s aux rather than on remembering to check.
  • 🔴 Set the mode before moving any cable. Both chargers land on the same lug plate, so a swap is a lug move — and the damaging direction is the IP67 landing on the Epoch still set to High, since 14.7 V is 3.675 V/cell, above the 3.65 ceiling.
  • House state of charge comes from the SmartShunt (coulomb count), shown on the Cerbo and VRM. It re-synchronises on the first full charge — do not read the first figure as a battery fault.

Grounding & the negative tree

  • A tree, not a loop — exactly one path from any node back to the common negative.
  • 🔴 The house battery’s negative post carries exactly one cable, and it goes to the SmartShunt. Everything else — start battery, engine block, charger negatives, loads — reaches the shunt’s system side. Bond the house post to anything else and house current gets a path around the shunt.
  • The bulkhead studs are distribution nodes, not pass-throughs. 2204 is the unswitched start-positive node; 2203 is its negative mirror. Each replaces two long cables with one long run and two short jumpers, so every long cable terminates where it can be seen and re-torqued and only short pre-made jumpers go into the blind zone behind the alternator.
  • The AC-to-DC bond is made at the engine block, by the AC panel, and there is exactly one aboard. The 8377’s third bus is a DC grounding bus that links to the AC grounding bus — the bond is not made inside the DC panel.
  • ⚠ Two ground conductors at the old panel are unaccounted for and probably already provide that bond. Confirm before creating another.
  • 🔑 Spend on terminations, not copper. 16 ft of 2 AWG is 2.5 mΩ; one corroded ring terminal is 5–50 mΩ. The corrosion found on the old bare-copper terminals was worth more than the entire cable run — and tinned lugs are why it will not come back.